Rediscovering Negros region’s culture

Despite the integration of Negros Occidental and Negros Oriental to form the Negros Island Region, Hiligaynon remains the main dialect with Kinaray-a, Capiznon and Aklanon also spoken in other provinces of Panay.

Another indication of Negros’ rich culture is Sagay City in Negros Occidental which exemplifies authentic ecotourism. Carbin Reef which is part of the Sagay Marine Reserve, is one of the largest marine reserves in the country covering 32,000 hectares. Swimming and snorkeling complement the culinary artistry of Mark Lobaton, a kinilaw master.

Meanwhile, the Suyac Island Mangrove Eco-Park is the first fully community-based eco-tourism project in line with the city’s thrust on sustainable tourism development. Suyac is home to one of the oldest and biggest mangroves particularly Sonnerata Alba or commonly called pagatpat.

Worth discovering is Museo Sang Bata sa Negros, the first hands-on and interactive museum outside Metro Manila, where very young eco-warriors display their tour guiding skills by explaining the wonders of the maritime world.

Kayakingthrough a maze of mangroves attracts adventure seekers at the Lapus-lapus Bulanon Conservation Area. Together with floating cottages, this area was declared by the City Government of Sagay as a local conservation area.

From the blue waters of Sagay Marine Reserve, colorful trisikads take visitors to Pook Bougainvillea, the Community of Colors. These bedecked pedicabs were steered gleefully by trained sikad drivers with their narratives on the art and the environment of their neighborhood while quietly pedalling the narrow streets of the coastal mangrove barangay.

Artist Nunelucio Alvarado, the nationally and internationally renowned social realist of Sagay, conceptualized the Community of Colors at Purok Bougainvillea and have painted houses with uniquely Alvarado designs he calls painted matters as his way of celebrating arts in the community.

The trisikad ride ends in Margaha beach where Master Nune has set up his home and gallery with his wife Sally. Margaha is known for its black sand which locals claim to be therapeutic.  Seven poles (haligi) were installed on the beach to represent the seven disciplines of art. Margaha Beach Resort has been a haven for artists and visitors who enjoy the sunrise and sunset with a cup of iced coffee  at Kape Albarako.

Visit to Bgy. Puey, Sagay in the upland area of Negros Occidental lead to indigenous communities or homes of the original settlers of Negros, such as the Ata community. From three households, it has grown to bigger in a five-hectare land. During the Ata Day festivity, the Atas performed an Inagong courtship dance, a ritual for honey gathering, a bird calling technique called pispis and a weaving demonstration. Handmade bags were available and endemic plants were planted during the day. This formerly nomadic group have settled in their ancestral land but are striving to preserve their Inata culture. 

From Bacolod, Negros Occidental, to neighboring Iloilo which has been named UNESCO City of Gastronomy, the Agatona 1927 Museum Café, named after Doña Agatona Escarilla Arguelles, is an ancestral house built in 1927 in neoclassical architecture style. It is located right next to Graciano Lopez Jaena Park (Jaro Plaza) and overlooks Jaro Cathedral. With its old-world charm and delectable Ilongo dishes, the Agatona 1927 Museum is a must-see destination. 

In Calinog, the Panay-Bukidnon indigenous people have preserved their culture owing to cultural bearers such as the late Federico Caballero who was declared a National Living Treasure for his epic poetry chants. These chants were documentation of oral literature particularly the ten epics in an extinct language related to Kinaray-a. Caballero’s widow Lola Lucia “Lucing” Caballero is known as a binukot, a woman who is secluded from childhood until her marriage then she becomes nabukot. She is exempted from hard work, bathes at night and has servants.

Lastly, the Panublion Museum in Roxas City and Sta. Monica Parish Church with its biggest bell, provide a fitting cap to the historical allure of Negros. With food, adventure, art, ecology, local and indigenous culture, the Western Visayas Odyssey is truly a treasure trove waiting to be discovered.