Cavite chefs keep regional history alive through food

By Azer N. Parrocha / Philippines News Agency

Regional heirloom recipes may not be as popular as current food trends, but they continue to exist, thanks to a group of Cavite province-based chefs called the “Culinary Generals.” 

According to member Christopher Carangian, the group was created after representatives from Region 4A (Cavite, Laguna, Batangas, Rizal and Quezon provinces, or Calabarzon) participated in the annual Madrid Fusion Manila gastronomy event.

He said the group aims to preserve the region’s heirloom recipes, and promote regional culinary talents and local products.

Another member, Cornel Bongco, said the Culinary Generals took time to revisit the region’s old way of life, as well as leadership principles, trade secrets and business ethics, since they remain useful today.

He cited as an example an old drinking ritual called the Tagayan, in which guests and hosts take turns to propose a toast in poetry form.

This ritual, which started in Quezon, highlights the hospitable nature and civilized way of life in the southern Tagalog region.

“Rediscovering food is not only a way of rediscovering our past, but also rediscovering oneself. Each bite is a bite of history, a bite into old principles, for us to be better Filipinos,” Bongco said.

In August, the Culinary Generals will again hold the annual Kalye Kulinarya, a three-day local gastronomy congress that will feature a food bazaar, trade expo, and business seminar.

Kalye Kulinarya helps promote local traditional producers and small proprietors, particularly backyard businesses, which mostly do not employ any packaging or branding.

The Culinary Generals will also be publishing a coffeetable book on heirloom recipes and cuisine linked to the region’s history.

Department of Tourism (DOT) Region 4A Director Rebecca Labit lauded the Culinary Generals’ dedication in preserving its culinary heritage.

“As a cradle of history, the region proudly nurtured some of the country’s heirloom cuisine and it is crucial to safeguard this intangible heritage,” Labit said.

“This is a difficult task, and we are very grateful to the Culinay Generals for devoting themselves to this undertaking,” she added.